Things about Denmark:
It was excellent for cycling in;
Copenhagen was beautiful; and
The weather almost spoiled it all.
Once we left the incredibly helpful Helge, we rode north to catch the ferry from Puttgarden. Not the easiest affair. So to anyone who is reading this and planning on doing the same, just pretend you are a car. Do not follow the cycleway to the terminal - you cannot buy a ticket there. Do not approach the building with a large sign reading "tickets" - you cannot buy a ticket there either. Just get in one of the lines signposted for cars, motorhomes, motorbikes and lorries (note, not signposted for bikes) and get a ticket from the booths.
The ferry was pretty uneventful, apart from the pangs of homesickness brought on by the large display of whisky on offer, one of which was from our 'local' distillery, Glengoyne.
Off the ferry we made our way to Maribo, after being stopped by the police at the port. The chap who stopped us gave us directions in perfect English and wished us well. As you would expect a cycleway took us all the way to Maribo where we spent the night. Helen had previously read that there was nothing much between the port and Maribo so thankfully we had already planned for this extra journey onwards.
We anticipated an easy day two, riding to Copenhagen. The lesson we have learned is never tempt fate by expecting a nice day, just take them as they come.
A few minutes after setting off we were hit by a huge thump of freezing rain. We were both soaked. Thankfully, the blasting head wind blew the rain through after about 30 minutes, and we just had to contend with that together with the 5 degrees temperature. Then I got a puncture so we got even colder while I fixed that. The positive was that I noticed the puncture right next to a petrol station so the pressure in my tyre from then on was perfect!
Next up, after a rickety bridge, we had a 50km cycle into Koge where we decided to camp that night. And so it was 50km of cycling into the wind, drenched and along a road that had only three bends in it. Otherwise it was totally straight. We both struggled considerably and variously neither thought we would make the end. I usually perk up when we are within 30 km of the end, because I can imagine actually getting there, but it didn't happen. We rolled into our campsite, ate, slept and set off again for Copenhagen.
We didn't actually stay in the city. When we were in Bremen, Rasmus called his aunt who offered to put us up for the night in their house in Hillerod. We took the train up there and back to Copenhagen. It was a fantastic night: Lise and Kristen were so friendly, generous and so much fun. Before dinner we went for a walk around the former royal palace in Hillerod, and during dinner we all got very drunk. Lise very kindly attended to our laundry and sent us on our way in the morning with a packed lunch and wine to take with us. Thanks Lise and Kristen!
And then it was back to Copenhagen to enjoy the city for a couple of hours, walk through the blossoming trees and realise that the petals falling on us was actually snow. And we were still heading a long way north, but not expecting anything easy to come.